I haven’t gotten around to writing this up, but I though that I
would share my general outline from class.
General terms
Continued use of some terms
under: saya, brial, gonela
over: pellote, cota, aljuba, piel, hopa
outer: manto, redondel, garnacha, tabardo, , capuz (hooded cloak)
Jaqueta
or jubón (men)
close to body, closed with many buttons
1393- quilted, stuffed with cotton
at first jaqueta could be knee-length
after 1440- jaqueta refers to short
parti-colored possible, one side of diagonal plaid possible
Cotardia
and gardacós (women)
low necklines, tight at breasts, loose at waist and hips
camisas- full sleeves with tiras (appliquéd stripes) or narrow
sleeves
cotardia- overall term for dress
parti-colored possible, one side of diagonal plaid possible
Gardacós- overall garment lined/quilted with fur- surcoat
Saya and gonella (women)
mid-century of quilted cotton
hanging material at elbow- early representation in Europe (1340)
Hopalanda or hopa
(men and women)
1364 earliest refrence-royal palace of Navarre
most references from 1380’s
usually lined with fur
often split to expose under garment
dagging and some trim
some short sleeves edged with fur, full sleeves under
Catalan- exaggerated collars
Ropa
full, short garment
like short hopa (men)
Accessories:
capirote- hood
cofia (female) transparent head covering,
veil often topped with tight caps
bonetillas- brimless hat with feather
mantonilla (Castille) short cape down past buttocks
mantonet (Catlana-Arogonese) short cape to waist, often with
exaggerated collar
beards- forked